Stacy’s Flower Squared Afghan

IMG-20160725-02608

As you can see in my earlier post, I was inspired to make a blanket like one I saw in photos. There was no pattern and I didn’t know the designer. This is the version I started on, before being asked by my Crochet Group for the pattern as a group project.

Designed by Charlene Boardman

Pdf Here

I use US Crochet Terminology

Stitches used: Sc, dc, tr, ch, ss
Tunisian Entrelac

Materials:

I used Kismet Lollipop Double Knit which comes in 300m/100g Balls
300m each of Dark, Medium and Light Pink
300m Light Green
600m Cream

4mm Hook
Yarn needle

Gingham squares: Tunisian Entrelac

Gingham Blocks are made using the Tunisian Entrelac method of squares that change colour after each square. You can carry your yarn behind your work when not in use. If you prefer, you can crochet over the yarn. If that becomes too complicated, cut yarn between squares and work ends in once completed. Keep your tension loose so you do not distort your square.

IMG-20160607-02543    A: Dark Pink squares in the corners

Follow the diagram for placement of colours (Dark, Medium, Light), and placement of next square (1-25). As you can see you will be growing diagonally.

Tier 5 15 d 19 m 22 d 24 m 25 d
Tier 4 10 m 14 l 18 m 21 l 23 m
Tier 3 6 d 9 m 13 d 17 m 20 d
Tier 2 3 m 5 light 8 m 12 l  16 m
Tier 1 1 dark 2 medium 4 d 7 m 11 d

Number is the order of the square to make in Tunisian stitch

D – dark pink
M – medium pink
L – light pink

Foundation: (1) Chain 4 in Dark pink,

  1. Pick up a loop from each chain on your hook, and leave the loop there: *Insert hook through top of your chain, YO, pull through* repeat 3x (4) Forward row
  2. YO, pull through 1st loop, *YO, pull through 2 loops* repeat twice (Return row)
  3. Pick up a loop from each vertical stitch from row just made, and leave on hook like you did in 1st (4) Forward Row
  4. Repeat Row 2.

Repeat these rows until your block is a square. Some hookers may make 3 rows, some may make 4 rows, it depends on your tension.

  1. Final row will be a Forward Row: *Pick up loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook*. Please do not ‘cast off’ tightly or your square will be oddly shaped. End off and cut yarn

Blocks that begin a new Diagonal: 2 Medium,   4 Dark,   7 M,   11 D:

  1. Join new colour to bottom right corner with a slip stitch pulled tight. This is to attach your yarn only, not make a stitch. Chain 4 and continue in the same way as Block 1. When you get the dark pink block join them by inserting your hook into the last stitch of row 1 just above the slip stitch where you joined the new yarn. YO, pull through.
  2. *YO, pull through 2 loops* to end.
  3. Repeat Forward row by picking up 3 loops, and join to dark pink block, by inserting your hook into the last stitch of row 2. *YO, Pull through 2 loops* repeat to end.
  4. And 5. Repeat Row 1 and Row 2 until your blocks are the same height.
  5. Repeat Final row as with Block 1. End and cut yarn.

Subsequent Blocks: 3 Medium :   5 Light, 6 Dark:   8 M, 9 M, 10 M:   12 L, 13 D, 14 L, 15 D:   16 M, 17 M, 18 M, 19 M:  20 D, 21 L, 22D :   23 M, 24 M:   25 D)

  1. Join new colour to same stitch where you ended the block just completed.
  2. Continue in pattern for subsequent blocks, but do not make chains to begin, you simply pick up loops from the final loops of the block below, in your 1st row of a new block. Remember you have to join the new block to the one on the left.

 B: Light Pink Squares in the corners.

IMG-20160607-02543

Tier 5 15 l 19 m 22 l 24 m 25 l
Tier 4 10 m 14 d 18  m 21 d 23 m
Tier 3 6 l 9 m 13 l 17 m 20 l
Tier 2 3 m 5 d 8 m 12 d 16 m
Tier 1 1 l 2 m 4 l 7 m 11 l

Follow the diagram for placement of colours (Dark, Medium, Light), and placement of next square (1-25). As you can see you will be growing diagonally.

Foundation: (1) Chain 4 in Light pink.

  1. Pick up a loop from each chain on your hook, and leave the loop there: *Insert hook through top of your chain, YO, pull through* repeat 3x (4) Forward row
  2. YO, pull through 1st loop, *YO, pull through 2 loops* repeat twice (Return row)
  3. Pick up a loop from each vertical stitch from row just made, and leave on hook like you did in 1st (4) Forward Row
  4. Repeat Row 2.

Repeat these rows until your block is a square. Some hookers may make 3 rows, some may make 4 rows, it depends on your tension.

  1. Final row will be a forward row: *Pick up loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook*. Please do not ‘cast off’ tightly or your square will be oddly shaped. End off and cut yarn

 Blocks that begin a new Diagonal: 2 Medium,   4 Light,   7 M,   11 L:

Join new colour to bottom right corner with a slip stitch pulled tight. This is to attach your yarn only, not make a stitch. Chain 4 and continue in the same way as Block 1. When you get the dark pink block join them by inserting your hook into the last stitch of row 1 just above the slip stitch where you joined the new yarn. YO, pull through.

  1. *YO, pull through 2 loops* to end.
  2. Repeat Forward row by picking up 3 loops, and join to dark pink block, by inserting your hook into the last stitch of row 2. *YO, Pull through 2 loops* repeat to end.
  3. And 4. Repeat Row 1 and Row 2 until your blocks are the same height.
  4. Repeat Final row as with Block 1. End and cut yarn.

Subsequent Blocks: 3 Medium:   5 Dark, 6 Light:   8 M, 9 M, 10 M:   12 D, 13 L, 14 D, 15 L:   16 M, 17 M, 18 M, 19 M:  20 L, 21 D, 22 L:   23 M, 24 M:   25 L)

  1. Join new colour to same stitch where you ended the block just completed.
  2. Continue in pattern for subsequent blocks, but do not make chains to begin, you simply pick up loops from the final loops of the block below, in your 1st row of a new block. Remember you have to join the new block to the one on the left.

Stacy’s Flower Square

Designed by Charlene Boardman

MATERIALS:

DK yarns in 3 shades, plus centre of flower colour (optional)
300m Cream yarn for borders and join
Green DK yarn for leaves
5mm hook
Tapestry needle to weave ends in securely

INSTRUCTIONS: Make roses in all 3 shades.

Foundation: Magic Ring

  1. Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc, ch 1), * 1 dc into ring, ch 1 **; repeat from * to ** 7 times. Join with a sl st into 3rd ch of the ch-4 made at the beginning of this round. (8 ch-1 sps) Cut yarn
  2. Join petal colour into any of the ch-1 spaces with a slip stitch, ch 1, * 1 sc, 3 dc, 1 sc ** into the same ch-1 space; repeat from * to ** into the next 7 ch-1 spaces. Join with a sl st into the first sc of the first ch-1 space. (8 petals)
  3. Chain 4, working behind petals, skip 1st petal, *slip stitch in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, skip next petal, repeat from* around. Join with slip stitch to beg chain 3 (8 ch 4 sps)
  4. Ch 1 and work * 1 sc, 5 dc, 1 sc ** into the first ch-4 space and repeat from * to ** into all the next ch-4 spaces; sl st into the first sc of the first petal made in this round. You should now have another 8 petals behind the first 8 made.
  5. Repeat Row 3 for another round of petals..
  6. Ch 1 and work * 1 sc, 5 dc, 1 sc ** into the first ch-4 space and repeat from * to ** into all
    the next ch-4 spaces; sl st into the first sc of the first petal made in this round. You should
    now have a 3rd round of 8 petals. Cut yarn.
  7. Join green yarn between any 2 petals with a sc. *Ch 6, sc into 4th ch from hook, hdc into next
    ch, dc into next ch, slip stitch into sc between petals. Repeat for 2nd leaf. Chain 4, sc between
    next petals.* repeat. (4 pairs of  leaves, 4 ch 4 sps). Cut yarn.

Celtic Lace Border

Celtic Lace Join link

  1. Join cream with *(sc to the tip of 1st leaf of any pair , Chain 3, sc to tip of 2nd leaf). Chain
    5, dc into sc between 2 petals of row 7, ch 5* repeat to end. Join with slip stitch to 1st Ss into corner ch-loop.
  2. *3sc into corner: 6sc into 5-ch loop of previous row, 6sc into 5-ch loop of previous row* repeat all around. Join with slip stitch to 1st
  3. Beg dc into same st as join, dc into same st, ch 2, skip sc, 2dc into next sc. *V-stitch – dc, ch 3, dc into middle stitch of 5dc group; dc, ch 3, dc into stitch between 5dc groups; dc, ch 3, dc into middle stitch of 5dc group. (Corner – 2dc into 1st sc, chain 2, skip sc, 2dc into next sc)* repeat all around. Join with ss into top of ch-3. SS to corner ch-loop.
  4. Beg dc, 2dc, ch 2, 3dc into corner space. *5 dc into each 3-ch space across side (ie: the top of the V-stitch); (3dc, chain 2, 3 dc)* Repeat all around. Join with ss into top of ch-3. Ss to corner space.

CELTIC LACE JOIN: (https://cypresstextiles.net/2016/01/09/celtic-lace-join/)

IMG-20160726-02611

NB: please note the chains in the corners and in final row may need to increase or decrease according to your tension. Your block must lie flat and square.

Celtic Lace Border:

  1. Join in top corner of Gingham square A or B – ensure the stripes of each block are vertical. Do not make stitches tight and ‘gather’ the block *(Corners: 3sc) 9 Sc evenly spaced in every side between the corner 3sc; keep tension loose so block lies flat, if your sc is too stretched, add in 1 ch between each sc.* Join with ss in 1st (corners: 3sc, 9 sc between corners)
  2. Begin in corner with 3 ch, dc in 1st sc, ch 3 and skip middle sc, 2dc in next sc: *Corners:  (2dc into 1st sc, ch3 and skip middle sc,, 2dc into 3rd sc) Skip 1st sc, (V-stitch: Dc in next st, ch3, dc into same st; skip 2 sc) repeat 2x, skip 1sc* Repeat for each side, end with ss into top of 1st st dc in corner, ss into corner space.
  3. Begin with 3ch for 1st dc, 2dc, 2ch, 3dc into ch-3 space. Corners: (3dc, ch2, 3dc). *5dc into ch3 repeat  Make corner.* Repeat for each side, ending with invisible join or ss into top of ch3,  Fasten off.

Celtic Lace Joining the Blocks:

This next Row is the actual join but you do this row alongside and with other blocks.
Make sure your block lies flat and 5ch loops are long enough so block is square.

Make sure the Tunisian Entrelac blocks have the ‘stripes’ going vertical.

  1. ***(sc, chain 5, sc) all in corner space. chain 5, (sc in centre dc of next 5dc group,
    chain 5) to end of side.***
    Repeat from *** to *** 3 more times. Join with a slip stitch in the beginning sc.

First motif complete! Now you will be joining the subsequent motifs on the final
round of the lace.

IMG-20160619-02563

  1. Start next block in bottom right corner with (sc, chain 5, sc) all in corner space. Do NOT join the bottom corners together. (Chain 2, join to ch-5 loop with a chain stitch enclosing the loop, chain 2 and sc in middle dc of 5dc group.) repeat to 2nd
    Chain 2, join to 1st block’s 5ch loop corner in the same way as above, and sc in same corner. Complete block on other 3 sides in same way as 1st block.
  2. Complete the row in the same way as step 2.All the top blocks are now complete on all four sides. All top corners are joined together, but the bottom corners are NOT joined yet. You are leaving these two corners un-joined because this is an area where 4 motif corners meet. On your next row of squares, these un-joined corners will be picked up by their diagonal corner buddies. In other words, they will be “reaching” across diagonally to each other, forming an X. Continue on with each consecutive block.

ROW 2

  1. Start 2nd row in bottom right corner with (sc, chain 5, sc) all in corner space. Complete 1st side as in step 1 and join the 1st corners (Chain 2, join to ch-5 loop with a chain stitch enclosing the loop, chain 2 and sc in same corner.

Join  the 2 rows: (Chain 2, join to ch-5 loop with a chain stitch enclosing the loop, chain 2 and sc in middle dc of 5dc group.) repeat to 3rd corner. Chain 2, join to the diagonally opposite block’s corner loop with a chain, ch 2, sc into corner.
Complete block as in Step 1 on next two sides.

  1. Start next block in bottom right corner with (sc, chain 5, sc) all in corner space. Do NOT join the bottom corners together. (Chain 2, join to ch-5 loop with a chain stitch enclosing the loop, chain 2 and sc in middle dc of 5dc group.) repeat to 2nd corner.

Chain 2, join to diagonally opposite corner’s 5ch loop corner with 2ch, joining chain, and sc in same corner. Complete block on other 2 sides.

  1. Complete the row in the same way as step 2.

Complete blanket in the same way, just remember to join bottom row corners in the same way as top row’s top corners.

Order of Joining

Join your squares according to this diagram. Sizes in cm and inches is indicated, as well as number of squares of each type A Block, B Block and F Flower block in 3 different colours.

Baby Cot Afghan:  76×107 cm/30×42″ – 5×7=35 Blocks

Baby Cot Afghan:  76×107 cm/30×42″ – 5×7=35 Blocks

A Fdp A Fdp A
Fmp B Fmp B Fmp
A Flp A Flp A
Fdp B Fmp B Flp
A Flp A Flp A
Fmp B Fmp B Fmp
A Fdp A Fdp A
A 12 10
B 6 6
F 17
Total SQUARES 35

Flower Dark Pink        5

Flower Medium Pink  7

Flower Light Pink        5

Lapghan: 92x140cm/36×55″- 6×9=54 Blocks

A FDP B FDP A FDP
FMP B FMP A FMP B
A FLP B FLP A FLP
FDP B FMP A FLP B
A FLP B FLP A FLP
FMP B FMP A FMP B
A FDP B FDP A FDP
FDP B FMP A FLP B
A FMP B FMP A FMP
A 14
B 13
F 27
Total SQUARES 54
FDP 8
FMP 10
FLP 8

 Twin Bed Afghan/Throw: 8×11 – 123×200 cm/48×84″ – Blocks 88

A FDP A FDP A FDP A FDP
FMP B FMP B FMP B FMP B
A FLP A FLP A FLP A FLP
FDP B FDP B FDP B FDP B
A FMP A FMP A FMP A FMP
FLP B FLP B FLP B FLP B
A FDP A FDP A FDP A FDP
FMP B FMP B FMP B FMP B
A FLP A FLP A FLP A FLP
FDP B FDP B FDP B FDP B
A FMP A FMP A FMP A FMP
A 24 FDP 16
B 20 FMP 16
F 44 FLP 12
Total SQUARES 88

Final Border: 

Begin in any corner: *3 sc, 3 chain, 3 sc in corner. In each 5-ch loop make 3 sc, 3 ch, 3 sc. Where 2 corners meet make 3 sc in one 2-ch loop, 3 ch, 3 sc in next 2-ch loop. continue all around the border in this manner. Slip stitch into 1st sc to join and FO. Weave in all loose ends.

IMG-20160726-02611

PDF here

tunisian blanket squares
Gallery

Ahzryn Briar Rose Blanket

tunisian blanket squares

I came across photos of a baby blanket that I fell in love with, but couldn’t find a pattern. I decided to recreate what I saw, hoping it would come out right. I was very pleased with my result, which was slightly different.

I teach crochet, and my ladies asked to make the blanket. I decided to find the designer. I placed posts on a fb pages I belong to. The result was amazing! I found her! And many, many hookers asked for a pattern. Tammy only had a brief explanation on her Ravelry project, and I got requests for a proper pattern over and over.

I decided to add a project to Ravelry, linking to her original project. Here it is:

Briar Rose Afghan

Original made by: Tammy Nanda: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/ahzryn/celtic-lace-join

Pattern details updated by: Charlene Boardman aka CraftCrazyGran: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/caboardman/ahzryn-briar-rose-blanket

US terms

These are not my photos, but of the original made by Ahzryn

Materials:

300g Medium (4), Worsted Weight, heavier DK yarn White or Cream
200g Medium (4), Worsted Weight, heavier DK yarn Light Pink
200g Medium (4), Worsted Weight, heavier DK yarn Medium Pink
200g Medium (4), Worsted Weight, heavier DK yarn Dark Pink
5mm hook

 Gingham squares:

  • 13237813_1178111732213108_5549304237590793884_nA: dark pink blocks in the corners
    Gingham squares are 20sc x 20 rows, changing colours after 4sc/rows. Carry your yarn behind your work when not in use. If you prefer, you can crochet over the yarn too.
  1. Holding dark and medium pink yarns together, and carrying yarn behind your work loosely, chain 4 in dark pink, change to medium chain 4, dark pink ch 4, medium pink ch 4, dark pink ch 5 (last being your turning ch) (5 blocks of colour)
  2. Sc in each st using colour of chains. (4sc in dark, 4sc in medium)
  1. And 4. Repeat row 2

5 – 8. Change colours to medium and light pink for the next 4 rows. 4sc in medium, 4sc in light, to end

9 – 12. Change colours to dark and medium pink again. 4sc in dark, 4sc in medium to end

13 – 16. Repeat rows 5-8

17 – 20. Repeat rows 13-16

You will now have a gingham-like block of dark, medium and light pink – 20ch (plus 1 turning chain) and 20 rows.

Border:

  1. Begin in corner with a standing dc: Corners:  (2dc, ch3, 2dc) *(Dc in next st, ch3, dc into same st, skip 2 st* repeat 3x, dc into next st.  Repeat for each side, end with ss into top of 1st st dc in corner
  2. Slip stitch into corner ch3, begin with 3ch for 1st Corners: *(3dc, ch3, 3dc). *5dc into ch3* repeat  4x. Make corner.* Repeat for each side, ending with invisible join or ss into top of ch3,  Fasten off.

B: light pink blocks in the corners

13173929_1178111762213105_713100111989843581_nGingham squares are 20sc x 20 rows, changing colours after 4sc/rows. Carry your yarn behind your work when not in use. If you prefer, you can crochet over the yarn too.

  1. Holding Light and medium pink yarns together, and carrying yarn behind your work loosely, chain 4 in light pink, change to medium chain 4, light pink ch 4, medium pink ch 4, light pink ch 5 (last being your turning ch) (5 blocks of colour)
  1. Sc in each st using colour of chains. (4sc in light, 4sc in medium, repeat)
  1. And 4. Repeat row 2

5 – 8. Change colours to medium and dark pink for the next 4 rows. 4sc in medium, 4sc in dark, to end

9 – 12. Change colours to light and medium pink again. 4sc in light, 4sc in medium to end

13 – 16. Repeat rows 5-8

17 – 20. Repeat rows 13-16

You will now have a gingham-like block of dark, medium and light pink – 20ch (plus 1 turning chain) and 20 rows.

Border:

  1. Begin in corner with a standing dc: Corners:  (2dc, ch3, 2dc) *(Dc in next st, ch3, dc into same st, skip 2 st* repeat 3x, dc into next st.  Repeat for each side, end with ss into top of 1st st dc in corner
  2. Slip stitch into corner ch3, begin with 3ch for 1st Corners: *(3dc, ch3, 3dc). *5dc into ch3* repeat  4x. Make corner.* Repeat for each side, ending with invisible join or ss into top of ch3,  Fasten off.
  • Flower Squares:

    13177632_1178111742213107_3503605362019220005_n

Babouska Rosehttps://thelittletreasures.blogspot.co.za/search/label/babouska%20rose

  • Border:
    1. Begin in corner with a standing dc: Corners:  (2dc, ch3, 2dc) *(Dc in next st, ch3, dc into same st, skip 2 st* repeat 3x, dc into next st.  Repeat for each side, end with ss into top of 1st st dc in corner
    2. Slip stitch into corner ch3, begin with 3ch for 1st Corners: *(3dc, ch3, 3dc). *5dc into ch3* repeat  4x. Make corner.* Repeat for each side, ending with invisible join or ss into top of ch3,  Fasten off.

     

  • Join: Celtic Lace Join: FREE PATTERN  http://babylovebrand.net/2013/11/20/celtic-lace-join/Join
  • Outside Border:
    Outside Border
    (sc, ch2, 2dc, picot, 2dc, ch2) around, with corners worked with 3dc, 3 picot.
  • NB: pattern is not tested. Please contact me if you find errors, on here or: ca.boardman@gmail.com

Crochet Terms Translation Project

Have you come across a gorgeous pattern written in a foreign language? Clicked on google translate and ended up with gobbledegook? Well I have far too often. Sometimes I get a really close translation: 2 ??, 6 x, sorta thing. If I only knew what ?? was!

Well Rhondda Mol at OOmbawka Design has created and on-going Translation Project! There are so many (Crochet Terms) languages translated already, and she’s asking for mote contributions from crocheters out there.

This is an incredible resource, and I thank Rhondda and all the contributors from the bottom of my yarny heart!!

Here is this brilliant link:

http://oombawkadesigncrochet.com/category/crochet-translation-project

Scroll through and see how much has already been done!

This one is especially for my fellow South Africans:

Afrikaans Crochet Terms and U.S. Crochet Terms

Bless you!

the gentle art of crochet

I remember the first time I tried to crochet.

It was long before youtube, pinterest and the internet. I think I bought a crochet book at the hospice and all the necessary tools at the local wool shop…… and the struggle started.

It was not an easy journey.

Now, after many decades I absolutely love to crochet! Where it was frustrating and complicated it is now relaxing and energizing and the feeling of completing something is so GOOD!

I felt quite confident with my crochet skills, making hats, scarfs, blankets that turned into cushion covers (it is sometimes difficult to finish something you know) ….. but reading a pattern was still a daunting task. The magical land of crochet diagrams and written patterns was out of my reach and something I struggled with and contributed to a few grey hairs!

With this in mind something beautiful was created… The Gentle…

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Featured Image -- 3114

KCACO-UK 2016 | Everything is Cool and Groovyghan | Starts Jan 13 2016

I love Groovyghans, would you like to join? Follow the links

Keep Calm and Crochet On U.K

Everything-Is-Groovyghan Logo

Following a poll I conducted on Facebook, about doing a Crochet-A-Long (CAL) for 2016, and if I did what we should do the CAL on, the resounding answer was for a ‘Groovyghan’.  This is rather cool because I’ve always wanted to have a go at making one…and now I get to design one!

The ‘Everything is Cool and Groovyghan CAL’ will start on 13 January 2016. The tutorials for each part will be released every two weeks on a Wednesday on my blog where they will remain available forever.

This is a mystery crochet-along for a rectangular mixed motif blanket where either blocks or rows will be introduced every two weeks. Lots of different shapes and stitches will be incorporated so it won’t get boring and there will be plenty of opportunity to play with colour!

As well as posting information on this blog I’ll also be linking the information in my KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group, which if it’s…

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Caring for your Crochet Hooks – An Overlook Habit

This is an invaluable article, These are the tools that keep me creative anf happy, they deserve to be well looked after! Thank you so much!

Crochet With Passion

2013-04-02 14.38.13

Over time I have invested a lot of money in a rather nice collection of crochet hooks. Crochet hooks that are meant to last a life time, and with proper storage and care you could add life to your hooks. I have found that in my students that there is often an overlooked habit that most crocheters do not consider. This post will be on how to care for your crochet hooks. With your hooks being the main tool of your craft, you do not want to go through the expense of buying the same hook over and over again because you damaged or lost the first one. For every hook you have to repurchase is one less skein of yarn you will buy.

Storing Crochet Hooks:

When I first started crocheting I kept my hooks in a Pringles potato chip canister. What I did not realize at the time…

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The smallest achievement is better than the greatest intention…

This is really awesome!

ayarnyrobin

Here it is all complete… and I

love, love, love it.  

wpid-dsc_0690.jpg

Made from scraps, excluding the edging, this little blanket has provided me with the hooky colour therapy that I so needed.  I had made many of these charming squares at the end of other projects, not really being sure of their final purpose.

mini squares made from scraps mini squares made from scraps

Perhaps a cushion or a giant blanket I thought, big enough for all the robins to snuggle under…yes! that is what I decided upon, a large endeavour of love made from these little, beautiful components and so I started. And so it has remained, unloved at times or loved from afar, but most certainly unfinished and alas my latest commitments made the hooky pleasure of this project impossible.

I love a simple granny! I love a simple granny!

No, a king sized blanket out of tiny granny squares became a lingering burden…and so with some…

View original post 165 more words